March 23, 2011
Phones are ringing off the hook today, calling, being called. Mine goes dead from all the traffic. But before it does, my friend calls me to make sure I'm all right.
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| Sculpture of Sampson on Mamilla |
"Unfortunately, you get used to this," he says. "Life keeps going but it's sad because now, you'll feel the change. People will stop going out." And indeed, the streets are rather empty tonight, but I can pretend it's because of the cold.
"Welcome to Israel," another friend tells me. "Now you're really a part of it."
Yes. But fortunately, today, I took a detour before heading to Har Nof to return my borrowed cell phone and I was not on the 74 or at my bus stop waiting. I was not a part of shattered glass and the ended life or of the lives immediately interrupted by shrapnel.
"Unfortunately, you get used to this." In response I say, "In a way, I already am."
I know how life holds us all precariously, like unweighted feathers resting lightly on her palm in the wind. I know how death waits patiently with his fingers wrapped around our throats so that we get used to him. So that we hardly notice him anymore. So that that he almost always catches us by surprise.
We talk about life-as-usual. We go on our dates. We enjoy starlight above the Old City.
Let me come clean on this one: I am over the Green Line. Way over. But I couldn't tell you where I cross it. I let the bus route take me.
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| Outside the Old City |
From up on my hill, the land sprawls out beautifully. There are no borders. Borders are made my man, built, imagined, razed. All I see from up on the hill is beauty--and it's impossible to imagine the workings of the human race that build and destroy so whimsically.
It feels different as an Israeli. This is my city, my bus stop, my bus, my friends, my family. And I wonder how we have sustained this madness for so long, how we can perpetuate it merely by being incapable of imagining another way.
March 30, 2011
A week later and we're back to normal. One bomb can't stop the party. Or maybe we're over it. The glitch was just a gentle reminder: be vigilant. Keep an eye out. Keep both eyes open. Don't ever sleep deeply.
There's no rush, just an urgency. We don't discuss it. Why discuss the obvious?
So? We could die in a minute? We always can.
God twitches a little. It's involuntary. What to do? And we're in the way. Insignificant little fleas.
We go ahead with vacation, as planned. Eilat. Maximum south.
In truth, we can walk to Jordan or Egypt. We've walked farther before. We can swim there, in the chilly water.
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| The Egypt-Israel Int'l Border |
I swear, the Red Sea is the bluest water I've ever seen in my life. It's too vibrant to be real and in the water, the borders are really imaginary. The water is too clear for borders, but the proud flags flying remind us when we come up above the surface that we're human. We have to choose.
One of my roommates and another immigrant have the same birthday. They've spent months planning this weekend in Eilat. It begins with a טיול (tiyyul-trip, hike, outing). We're freezing in the pitch black, like the ninth plague. But we can move.
To escape the strongest wind, we decide to camp in a crater. Sleeping bags are laid out, food is prepared by flashlight. We huddle together, body-to-body, warmth begets warmth. We make tea, but only for our hands.
At 5:30, we pretend to wake up and by 7:00, we're off. We are hiking to Eilat from the mountains. It takes 12 hours, including a total of 2 hours of rest. Strenuous, raw, beautiful. Beautiful beyond description. Silent, divine.
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| Israel from the Eilat Mts, the Red Sea and Jordan |
Divine.
Seven years ago, Uriel told me that it and its brethren were born here, in the desert. All of them left me alone this time, gave me space, let me connect with the earth in a Human way for once, instead of saturating me with holy commentary. Except when I needed them.
"Help me," I say, "to climb down the ladder." So they help me because I've never overcome my fear of heights.
They help me climb up and down but the help is minimal. They have learned to listen after all this time, or perhaps seeing all this for myself was the message this time around.
Either way, I made it.
Once in Eilat, we check into the hotel, take showers and quick naps before going to dinner and to sleep. At least I went to sleep. I have no idea what everyone else did.
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| Eilat Mountains |
In the morning we fight with boat captains about enough space and the price of a cruise. After much ado and more ado, we get off our reserved boat and end up taking another. Great sun, air, food, and company. There is a large group of Estonian tourists with us. Apparently, Estonia has opened itself up to massive amounts of tourism to and from "the Holy Land". I wonder how we look to them.
When vacation is over and we return to Jerusalem, I return to the fact that my absorption is nearly complete, according to the Absorption Check-List. I'm employed, I have friends, and my Hebrew is steadily improving.
Now I'm looking for an apartment and prospective roommates. Furniture or a furnished room. I'm figuring out Pesach plans. Life is good. Life is
so good.

Because I have a job, I don't have to worry about paying my National Insurance, and the door has opened up to going home for a visit and possibly even going to Turkey to meet the best person in the world for one day in July. So, I have to go back to the Misradim (offices) and get a travel document or passport. I can also afford to transfer my driver's license to Israel. Wish me luck. And come visit after June.